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The only way to really sample delicious cuisine in Kerala is to eat the food cooked in people's homes because restaurants are unable to emulate that quality. On your backwater tours we suggest you stop off at any village and request a meal (pay a small fee).

The range of fish curries is excellent. Try white curries or reds or the browns and yellows. Sip coconut water with the meal. A fish particular to the region is the karimeen,, called pearlspot in English, which survives in the brackish water of the lagoon and is neither a freshwater nor a salt water fish. Try a curry made from that fish or grilled karimeen.

There are a handful of restaurants who offer nearly comparable seafood or dishes that are good Indian stalwarts and one has to rely on these restaurants for good vegetarian meals:

Taj Garden Retreat, Kumarakom, near Kottayam, tel # 0481-668377: Good seafood. If you request for non-tourist fare you are more likely to get more typical Kerala food here than elsewhere. See the adjoining picture.

Coconut Lagoon, Kumarakom, near Kottayam, tel # 0481-668221, fx 0481-668001:

Vembanad Lake Resort, Kumarkom: Excellent ambience. Food served in the gardens by the lake and on tables located on the houseboats. Chinese, Indian, "continental" and seafood available. Very pretty at night.

Vemanad, Alleppey Prince, AS Road, Alleppey, tel # 0477-3752, fx 0477-3758: Good food

Arun, Hotel Komala, near Muncipal Maidan, Alleppey, tel # 0477-3631: Good food

Indian Coffee House, outlets at Alleppey, near Jetty; in Quilon on Main Street, in Alleppey on TB Road, opposite the bus station: This fast-food chain is an institution in Kerala towns. However banish any notions of comparing it with a McDonalds or a Wimpys. Good, wholesome south Indian favourites available; all vegetarian. Super coffee. Decor are just the basics -- table and chairs. Usually open 08.00 to 20.30.


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