But once you board it, there is a marked change. The repulsiveness of its exterior disappears in the myriad complexities inside. Porte-Avions Foch, an active participant in the NATO operations in Kosovo last year, belongs to a terribly complex world. Tradition and sentiments mix with the discipline of the French Navy and the deadly reality of nuclear weapons.

Foch, named after French Admiral Ferdinand Foch, is that country's only aircraft carrier. On a world tour, it sailed into the Bombay port in the last week of February. This is among the ship's last stop before it retires from service.

For Bombay it was a grim reminder of the phases an aircraft carrier passes through. The rusting I N S Vikrant, which once held fighter jets, is lying idle at port. I N S Viraat left almost a year ago, for a facelift at Cochin. Bombay, thus, has been content with fishing trolleys, oil tankers, merchant vessels and tiny frigates of the Indian Navy.

After being devoid of the glorious presence of a "live" carrier, Bombay hosted Foch a couple of kilometres behind the Gateway of India for almost a week. On February 28, the ship sailed into the high seas with several thousand men, aircraft, helicopters -- and a rediff.com team.

For the next couple of days, it went into an advanced war exercise with the Indian Navy, trying out dogfights between naval planes, stunning formations, tiny targets in mid-sea with their guns, and interaction between officers of the two navies.

It was the first advanced interaction (click to read the full report) between a western navy and its Indian counterpart after Pokhran II in May 1998.

We were aboard Foch for almost a day, before moving to an Indian frigate for the next 48 hours. Life on board the naval carrier was as interesting as the strikes and fabulous mid-sea actions. Life is a curious mix here, a church to nuclear weapons, wine and cheese, and roaring fighters -- all within a few hundred yards.

Foch has served the French Navy from 1968. But with no war or real action, it was a platform for ceremonies and training pilots. Till recently, the only mention that Foch found in the contemporary European security scenario was due to its prominent place in France's nuclear deterrence. Its Super Entendard Modernise bombers can deliver nuclear weapons.

Commander of Task Force 473 Rear Admiral Francois Cluzel, under whom Foch sailed, did not deny that the ship had in its chambers deep below nuclear bombs and missiles. He refused to be drawn into a discussion on the issue, but there were some French officers who indicated that nuclear weapons were all the time aboard Foch.

The NATO action in Kosovo last year changed Foch's peaceful status. The ship, on its way to oblivion, suddenly was the centre of action. Stationed in the Adriatic Sea, it became the platform for over 500 bombing missions by the French Navy's 11th attack squadron.

When Foch reached Bombay, on board was the 17FF attack squadron, comprising mostly of pilots who carried out the missions in Kosovo. The Kosovo operation, one of the biggest after World War II, saw thousands of bombings by NATO forces. Also, huge civilian casualties.

The French forces, claimed a senior pilot who was part of the missions, refused to attack civilian targets. "We demanded detailed information about the targets than the US. Particularly about possible civilian casualties. We were very, very conscious. So we refused to attack the TV centre in Belgrade," said Capitaine de Colvette [Captain] Robin, who skippers the 17F Super Entendard squadron.

They had refused to carry out missions on targets given by NATO several times, Captain Robin added.

Aboard Foch are Super Etendard Modenise bombers, Etendard IV P for reconnaissance, and Alize aircraft with radar. It also has Alouette and Super Frelon helicopters of its navy and a Puma helicopter of its airforce. The Super Frelons can carry a maximum of 20 people while the Puma carries 16.

With over 10 decks, the aircraft carrier can prove to be confusing. On its deck are the catapults, which can push an aircraft into taking off in a few seconds. When not in action, some of the aircraft and helicopters are parked on the deck below, where from they are lifted to the main deck by massive lifts.

On another deck are the messes, a third one houses the chapel, another houses the internal TV station, and yet another the dormitories of sailors and contract workers who are mostly school dropouts. Life on board this ship is indeed fascinating.

'India is a young navy with excellent strategic aims'
Francois Cluzel, Rear Admiral in the French Navy, on Indo-French collaboration.

Photographs: Jewella C Miranda
Design: Dominic Xavier