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'Working with stars is a learning process'

Sukanya Verma

Neeta Lulla could have been just another housewife, had it not been for her psychiatrist husband who egged her on to do something with her life. Today, she is one of the most sought-after designers in Bollywood, and is even tipped to win the National Award this year.

Having got married in her teens, Neeta enrolled for a fashion designing course at the SNDT Polyclinic where she now gives lectures. But never had she thought she would be designing clothes for filmstars one day.

Obviously, fate had other things in store for her. Neeta's brother-in-law was making a film called Tamacha in the early 1980s, for which she designed the clothes.

Neeta claims she never really had to struggle -- ever. She soon found herself designing for Sridevi, the then reigning superstar, who was extremely impressed with her work. Since then, Neeta had a long association with Sridevi till the latter quit films.

In the meantime, she had another regular client in Juhi Chawla. And now, Neeta does clothes for several top heroines including Aishwarya Rai, Mahima Chaudhary and Suman Ranganathan.

Besides films, she has also designed for music videos like Lata Mangeshkar's Ram Ratan Dhan Payo as well as coordinated the costumes for the performers at the Miss World pageant held in Bangalore in 1996.

Dressed in a black-and-white trouser suit for the interview, Neeta looked ravishing herself. She also looked extremely calm and composed. According to her, working with temperamental stars is not a major headache. "It's a learning process," she explains. "One needs to understand the needs of a client and whatever differences arise -- if at all -- can be sorted out amicably."

She is also very clear about why she designs only for the leading ladies. "See, when you take up a course, you have a choice of either doing either men's, women's or children's line. I simply chose to do women's line and am sticking to it," she says.

Even though Neeta has done ramp shows in the past, it's the film costumes that have brought her fame and recognition. Being a total professional and a perfectionist to the core, she feels it's important to get a full-narration of the script of a film. Only then, she insists, can she visualise the character and create the right kind of clothes for the characters.

That's precisely what happened with Lamhe, Darr, Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam and Taal. "I knew exactly what was going on," says Neeta.

She talks about her work for Hum Dil... "Sanjay Leela Bhansali had a script which was consistent from the word go. There were collective discussions on the settings, background, colours etc.We went to Bhuj and visualised what the look of the film will be like. I decided not to present the characters as over-dressed, but to give them a contemporary look. The results are for all to see. The young crowd, especially, has related to it," she smiles.

Neeta says she had similar experiences with Yash Chopra. "Yashji too was very clear in his mind about what he wanted and was quite open to suggestions. I developed a good rapport with him during the making of Lamhe and Darr," she states.

As for Taal, Neeta explains that Subhash Ghai had a definite look in his mind for Mansi played by Aishwarya Rai. But the colours -- saffron, beige and other earth-tones -- for this film were inspired by the Osho ashram, because "although Mansi is today's woman, she is removed from her surroundings and looks at life spiritually. So Mickey Contractor (the wellknown makeup artist) and I sat down together and worked out a look."

Neeta happens to be one of the top contenders for the National Award this year for her designs in Taal and Hum Dil... But she is determined not to let all the hype affect her work. Awards are not alien to her, she reminds us -- she has already won the National Award for her costumes in Lamhe.

"Those days, there wasn't so much hype. I wasn't even aware when the awards were announced. A friend told me about it, and I just did not know how to react. I had to do clothes for Sridevi as she was soon leaving for the US, and the awards function was around the same time. So, I was in two minds about going to collect the National Award. Ultimately, my husband talked sense into me and I made it for the function, after flying to Madras to give Sridevi her trials," she recalls.

Besides films, Neeta has tried her hand at theatre as well. She did the costumes for Vasavdatta, an ancient tale written by Mahakavi Bhasa and translated into English by Sri Aurobindo. "The only difference in designing for the stage and the screen is that in the former, the clothes are worn for a longer time. So the durability factor has to be kept in mind," she points out.

She smiles broadly when asked who her favourite client is. "It's like answering which child I like the most! Sridevi and Juhi are like family, and I have developed a very warm relationship with Aishwarya too," is her diplomatic answer. But she does feel that the newer lot of actresses are more professional while the earlier heroines were comparatively laidback.

Is there anyone she dreams of designing for? "Demi Moore," pat comes the reply. "She's something else. I know it's a farfetched thought. Can you imagine her in Bollywood?"

According to her, the definition of a well-dressed person is someone who can carry off anything and create a niche for himself or herself. Says Neeta, "Amitabh Bachchan, Rajesh Khanna and Simi Garewal are actors who have created a niche for themselves by adopting a style distinctly their own. Even Govinda -- though his style of dressing is considered flashy -- did manage to make people sit up and take notice of his clothes. People invariably ask, who is Govinda's tailor?"

Constant demands by producers and directors take a toll on most designers, but Neeta doesn't let the pressure get to her. "There is a thin line between sensuousness and vulgarity. As a film designer, I know the heroine has to look sexy, glamorous and striking. I keep within the parameters, beyond which I do not compromise with my ethics," Neeta says firmly.

She is particularly proud of her work in Jeans, especially in the song Ajooba, featuring the seven wonders of the world. "For this song we had 14 outfits," she adds.

The blue outfit Aishwarya wore for the Chand chhupa number in Hum Dil... is another a personal favorite. "My work in Taal is also close to my heart," says Neeta, adding that, "The public identifies with anything that is larger than life. Subtle clothes can be done, but we go loud simply because we have to cater to the masses as well."

So what's in store for future? "I am looking forward to Thakshak where I have designed clothes for Tabu. I must add that working with Govind Nihalani was a fantastic experience. I'm also doing the clothes for Kareena Kapoor in Chori Chori (opposite Ajay Devgan). She is a marvel, she will go places," predicts Neeta.

As we are about to leave, Neeta comes up with her parting shot. "I am glad that my Indian creations have been so well accepted and noticed. Indian clothes demand more creativity and attention. And I am proud of the fact that people seem to think I excel in the traditional mould."