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Nestled high among towering peaks, including the awesome Hubba Khatoon, Jammu and Kashmir's smallest assembly constituency Gurez is located at an altitude of 8000 feet above sea level.
Located barely five kilometres from the Line of Control, it's regularly targeted by Pakistani troops based in the Kala Durmut outpost, says Raj, pilot of the Indian Air Force helicopter, as he guides the aircraft into the tiny helipad.
The damaged girls secondary school and half a dozen broken down houses stand testimony to the punishment that this place suffers for being close to the LoC.
"Our children have grown up in this atmosphere, but we desperately need bunkers," pointed out Amina Begum waiting enthusiastically with about 100 women to exercise their franchise at the polling centre in the school.
Government employee Abdul Rahim said that National Conference chief Omar Abdullah has promised to provide the bunkers.
Gurez has 12,246 voters with women comprising about 40 per cent. The constituency is known for high voter turnout (in 1996 it was 70 per cent). Unlike most neighbouring constituencies in the rugged mountain terrain, this one does not exist in the shadow of the militants' gun.
"There is no fear here," explained octogenarian farmer Khuda Baksh. The heavy army presence could be one factor.
The anxiety to cast their votes stems from a desire to elect a representative who would solve their problems, of which there is a handful.
"The closest hospital is in Srinagar. We cannot send serious patients to the hospital because they can be transported only once a month. The frequency should be at least once a week," says Ghulam Mohammed Kaloo, a trader.
"We scarcely get electricity, about two hours a day. The diesel-generating set, which was provided to us, broke down a month ago and is yet to be repaired," Amina complained.
The residents also complained about the lack of communication facilities, pointing out that the two existing telephones were frequently out of order.
"In their heart of hearts, I think Kashmiri people are tired of militancy, which is getting us nowhere. We want to improve our lives by sending good representatives to the state assembly," Kaloo says.
Although there are three independents in the fray, the main fight is between Nasir Ahmed (National Conference) and Hamidullah Mir (Congress). However, no voter is willing to reveal his/her preference. "We believe in true democracy," Kaloo chuckled.
By mid-day, the polling percentage in the girls school was around 35 per cent with clear signs that it would go up. Further down at the Markoot polling centre, there was similar enthusiasm among the voters with the polling percentage touching the 40 per cent mark at 1300 hours.
But in Kupwara town, 20 minutes away by air, it was a different story. Polling officers (two on deputation from Uttar Pradesh) wearing bullet-proof vests were a none-too-pleasant reminder of the circumstances under which the polls were being held.
It's a nine-cornered contest with Mohammed Ashraf Lone (NC), Chaudhary Salauddin (Congress) and independent Ghulam Kadir Mir (formerly of the NC) regarding themselves as the serious contenders.
There was little activity among the people to indicate that a poll was on. Shopkeeper Tajuddin Qureshi explained that most residents were fed up of the state government, which never kept its promises.
However, at the polling station located in a small industrial complex in the town, one resident Shehzada revealed that "We have instructions from our leaders to boycott the polls."
At 1330 hours, less than 30 per cent of the electorate in Kupwara constituency had cast their votes.
Unconfirmed reports of a blast in Handwara (in Kupwara district) constituency and of an exchange of fire between militants and security forces in Surankote (in Poonch district) only accentuated their desire to stay away from the polling booths.
RELATED REPORTS 44% turnout in 1st phase of polling Moderate turnout marks north Kashmir polling
Jammu and Kashmir Elections 2002: The complete coverage
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